JK Grence
Phoenix New Times
March 5, 2013

In restaurants, the trend is take a humble comfort food and turn it into an upscale dish. Sometimes, it works incredibly well. Other times, you wish they hadn't even tried. There's one dish in particular that has to stay humble: chicken fried steak. Any attempt to fancy it up ends horribly. Friends have told me about restaurants elsewhere that do a Kobe rib eye version. I'm sure it's tasty, but my Texas roots scream to me that it's just wrong.

The whole point of chicken fried steak is to take a cheap cut of meat and transform it into something delicious. This ain't haute cuisine. This is truck stop diner food par excellence. A properly done CFS should reflect the generous nature of Southern hospitality and be big enough to hang off the edge of the plate. There's one place in town I can always count on to deliver the goods: Texaz Grill.

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